SilverState55: Custom & Collectible Football Helmets & Minihelmets



         
 
 
 
 
 
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**NOTE: This information is provided solely for private collection purposes ONLY.  THIS SITE DOES NOT SELL REFURBISHED FOOTBALL HELMETS, USED FOOTBALL HELMETS, NOR DO WE RECONDITION FOOTBALL HELMETS.  If you need football helmets reconditioned, please contact your appropriate supplier or manufacturer's representative**


SilverState55.com assumes NO liability for incorrect use of any football helmet.  All helmets subject to the steps listed below are for DISPLAY PURPOSES ONLY.  DO NOT USE ANY FOOTBALL HELMET FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE(S) THAN DISPLAY IF YOU SUBJECT IT TO THESE INSTRUCTIONS.  Read and follow any written instructions that accompany any helmet before using.

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Got a helmet that you want to clean up, but don't want or need to go through the whole painting and reconditioning process?  Here are several quick and easy tips to get that helmet decal and display ready!


First off, a precaution: if you sand or file a helmet shell, you are removing parts of the shell and will automatically void the warranty.  DO NOT USE THE HELMET FOR ANYTHING OTHER THAN A DISPLAY MODEL!  Some helmet manufacturers claim that simply applying spray paint to a helmet can cause it to become brittle; obviously by sanding/filing a helmet shell you are making the shell weaker.  So do not use it for anything other than display purposes only, in order to properly protect yourself.  To avoid any confusion with my shells (since they will only be used for display, and God help the poor fool that tries to use it for anything otherwise when I get hold of him/her), I sand off the NOCSAE certification molding on the rear of the shell and remove all labels but the sizing label inside.


With that said, let's get busy!


Be sure to strip down the helmet, removing the facemask, cheekpads, snaps, screws, and all inner pads and liners.  On a Riddell helmet with air bladders, be sure to remove the plastic plug from the outside of the helmet, and then gently remove the bladder/pads from the inside.  I usually don't worry if I'm going to tear the bladders as these helmets are going to be used for display only anyway.


Once the shell is stripped down, you may want to remove existing labels, stickers, and decals.  Various methods can be used, but I usually employ an Xacto knife with a chisel blade to remove these.  For exterior decals, use a hair dryer to heat the decal and peel it off.  For residual adhesive, use either a Brillo or SOS pad to scrub off the adhesive, or steel wool with hand cleaner.  You can also use 3M adhesive remover (available from auto body supply stores) to safely remove the adhesive residue.


I use either a Brillo or SOS soap-impregnated pad to scrub out the inside and outside of the shell.  Most of the used helmets I've obtained have not been thoroughly cleaned, so this is the time to do it.  Many pro teams use SOS & Brillo soap-impregnated pads to clean up their helmets between each game, as it safely removes paint scuffs and minor scrapes.  It will lightly scuff the surface, but this is easy to remove.


After using the steel wool pads to clean the shell, decide as to whether or not you want to do any sanding on the shell; you could just throw a coat of plastic polish on the shell and reapply decals once the paint scuffs are removed, or you could sand out some of the finer scratches.  I usually choose to break out the WetAndDry sandpaper to wet-sand out most of the minor scratches.  Starting with 400-grit, I progress in the following order: 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000-grit paper.  With 2000-grit and higher-grade paper, I sand in back-and-forth motions, instead of swirls or circles.  This ensures a consistent smoothing effect.  It took me less than two hours to strip this helmet down, and completely sand it, so it's not that involved of a process.  I also washed off the shell in between each grade of sandpaper to ensure that the sanding residue was removed.


After sanding is completed, and the shell has had time to dry out, I use 3M Machine Polish to prep the shell for applying decals.  It does not contain silicones or any other material that might prevent decals from adhering to the shell, so it is safe to use (unlike waxes, which can contain silicones or other compounds that may prevent the decals from adhering).  It also accepts paint clear coats and is a pleasure to use.  The results are worth the effort, as you can tell by looking at the photo to the left.  On the right side of the shell, the polish has been applied and buffed to a great shine.  You could also use Novus Plastic Polish or similar polish to achieve the same effect.  Apply your decals, and finish off the helmet with a coat of Brillianize plastic polish or Future Floor Polish for that high gloss shine!  If you don't like the look of the Future, just wash it off with a mixture of water and a little ammonia (don't breathe it though).  

The finished product!  Not bad for only a few hours' effort!